When clothes inhabit the city: fashion weeks and the ritual transmutation of places
When clothes inhabit the city: fashion weeks and the ritual transmutation of places
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.28998/lte.2021.n.2.13122Keywords:
Fashion Weeks. World of Fashion. Ritual. Performance. Space. Material CultureAbstract
The fashion weeks are rituals in which members of a community we can call, having Becker's (1982) proposal as a reference, the “world of fashion”. Although connected to a specific community, this ritual impacts the social life of cities, transmuting their spaces. This text begins by making, based on the case of Paris, a brief history of the route of dispersion throughout the city that fashion shows have made from the 19th century to the present day, associating this route with the main changes, of social and performative character, that these events suffered. In a second moment, the text focuses on the city of Lisbon, which is taken as a revealing case study, despite its particularities, the universal dynamics of the fashion week ritual.
Downloads
References
BECKER, Howard. Art worlds. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1982.
BENJAMIN, Walter. As Passagens de Paris. Lisboa: Assírio & Alvim, 2019.
BRACHET-CHAMPSAUR. Le défilé de mode et les grands magasins: des origines aux années 1960. In: Showtime: Le Défilé de la Mode. Paris: Paris Musées, 2006.
DUGGAN, Ginger Gregg. The Greatest Show on Earth: A Look at Contemporary Fashion Shows and Their Relationship to Performance Art. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. n. 5, p. 243-270, 2001.
EICHER, Joanne. The Anthropology of Dress. Dress. Volume 27, p. 59-70, 2000.
EVANS, Caroline. Le défilé de mode au début du XXe siècle à Paris: esthétique industrielle et aliénation moderniste. In: Showtime: Le Défilé de la Mode. Paris, Paris Musées, 2006.
FEATHERSTONE, Mike. Consumer Culture and Postmodernism. London: Sage Publications, 2007.
GOFFMAN, Erving. The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life. Edinburgh: University of Edinburgh, Social Sciences Research Centre, 1956.
GOLDBERG, Rose Lee. Performance Art – from futurism to the present. London: World of Art, 1988
GRUMBACH, Didier. Une histoire institutionnelle des défilés de mode. In: Showtime: Le Défilé de la Mode. Paris, Paris Musées, 2006.
LÖFGREN, Orvar. Catwalking and Coolhunting: The Production of Newness. In: LÖFGREN, Orvar; WILLIM, Robert. Magic, Culture and The New Economy. Oxford: Berg, 2005. pp. 57-72.
MILLER, Daniel. Introduction. In: MILLER, Daniel. Materiality. Durham e London: Duke University Press, 2005. pp. 1-50.
RAPPAPORT, Roy A. Ecology, Meaning, and Religion. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1979.
SCHECHNER, Richard. Between Theatre and Anthropology. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1985.
SCHECHNER, Richard. Pontos de contato entre o pensamento antropológico e teatral. Cadernos de Campo, n. 20, p. 213-236. 2011.
SCHECHNER, Richard. Performance Studies – an introduction. London, New York: Routledge, 2013.
SILVANO, Filomena. Sobre os desfiles de moda, os sentidos e os valores das roupas: a partir de uma etnografia do fazer no atelier de Filipe Faísca. In: FRADIQUE, Teresa; LACERDA, Rodrigo. Modos de ser, modos de fazer - Práticas na e com a antropologia. Lisboa: Etnográfica, 2021.
SILVANO, Filomena. Antropologia da Moda. Lisboa: Documenta, 2021a.
SILVANO, Filomena. Costureiras e rainhas: sobre uma reconfiguração da cultura material têxtil da Ilha do Pico. In: BARROCAS DIAS, Cristina; ROCHA DA SILVA, Filipe; PIRES, Susana. Livro do Ponto. Lisboa: Documenta, 2021b. pp. 61-76
SILVANO, Filomena; MEZABARBA, Solange. Encontros entre Moda e Antropologia: inícios, debates e perspectivas. Cadernos de Arte e Antropologia, vol. 8, nº 1, pp. 15-27. 2019 a.
SILVANO, Filomena. Desenhos de moda de Filipe Faísca – entrevista com Filomena Silvano. Cadernos de Arte e Antropologia, vol. 8, nº1. pp. 123-127, 2019b.
SKOV, Lise; SKJOLD, Else; MOERAN, Brian; LARSEN, Frederik; CSABA, Fabian. The Fashion Show as an Art Form. In: Creative Encounters Working Papers Series. nº 32, October. 2009. Disponível em:
<https://openarchive.cbs.dk/bitstream/handle/10398/7943/Creative%20Encounters%20Working%20Papers%2032.pdf?sequence=1>. Acesso em: 07 out. 2019.
TURNER, Terence. The social skin. Jornal of Ethnographic Theory. 2 (2). pp. 486-504. 2012.
TURNER, Victor. The Forest of Symbols: Aspects of Ndembu Ritual. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press. 1967.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
![Creative Commons License](http://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-sa/4.0/88x31.png)
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.